Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Fly Fishing Expert Jim Bailey: Interview

Here's an interview with Fly Fishing Expert Jim Bailey, of

What was your first time fly fishing like? How old were you?
I started fly fishing when I moved to Victoria, BC about 16 years ago - I
was 24 then. I grew up in the Yukon, and have been fishing as long as I can
remember although fly fishing was not as popular up north.
I learned to fly fish through reading "How to" books and much trial and
error. I've snapped off my share of flies, hooked my ear too many times to
count, and flogged the water with the worst of them before I became somewhat
My favourite rivers to fly fish were the Nitinat and the Cowichan. I spent a
lot of time on the Nitinat as it was more remote and I could go and practice
my technique in less embarassing solitude and in the process catch the odd
cutthroat and steelhead. The first fish I ever caught on the fly was at the
Nitinat. I remember it was about a 13-inch cutthroat hooked with an
Irrisistible Adams. It still thrills me to see a trout hit a dry fly on a
beautiful running stream.

What is your favourite fly fishing reel you've ever used, and why? (Jim combined his answer to this question with his answer to "Have you ever used/heard about Redington reels? If so, what's your
opinion on the company?
I've used many different reels... unfortunately not a Redington yet, but I
have heard good things about them. I have used the BFR modular titanium line
of reels and like them for the interchangeable cartridges however over time
the reel seat on one has loosened. I also have a Barney Rushton reel for my
4-wt which is also a nice reel.

What's your favourite piece of (fly) fishing equipment (rod, reel,
lure, depth finder/tech...)?

My favourite piece of equipment is probably the fly itself. After all that
is really what catches the fish and being able to recognize and imitate what
fish are feeding on is often half the battle. The study of entomology is
also very interesting. Any good fly fisherman has to understand the
different stages of an insects lifecycle then be able tie up a plausible
imitation. Fly tying is also another interesting facet of fly fishing, one
that has become a fine art.

Tell us about your best fly fishing experience, and (if you don't
mind), where it took place?

I have many great fly fishing experiences. The first steelhead I ever caught
was very special, simply because it was so unexpected. I was fishing for
searun cutthroat on the Nitinat River when something very large hit my
stonefly nymph and tore off down stream. After a lengthy battle I was able
to land the respectable 26-inch fish. I was amazed at how powerful thesetrout are.
More recently I was fly fishing the Wigwam River when a small 13-inch
cutthroat hit my stimulator pattern and dove into a pool. Suddenly a large
shadow emerged under the struggling fish. My rod doubled and I was now
fighting a much larger cutthroat. It took me deep into the pool and I had to
struggle to keep it from heading into the downstream rapids. I eventually
brought it within three feet of me. It had swallowed the smaller trout whole
and as I bent to land the 20-inch cutty, it opened its mouth and out floated
the fly. I stood amazed.

With all the information available out there on fly fishing, what's
your favourite tip/piece of advice?

I think the best advice I can give is to stop every once in a while and look
around. Sometimes we fly fisherman get too immersed in throwing string and
catching fish, we don't always fully appreciate our surroundings. To
paraphrase Haig-Brown, I think the reason I fly fish is just to be near

Thanks a lot for a great interview Jim! Again, that was fly fishing expert Jim Bailey of Fly Fishing BC.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Interview w Reel Repairman Jerry Heckenlaible

Reel repair specialist Jerry Heckenlaible just completed an interview with me. He was generous with his answers.

1) What was your first time fly fishing like? How old were you?
(Describe the who, what, where, when...)

1. I am not a fly fishing purist. In 64 years of life I have learned to do what works. That could be using a cast-a-bubble with a fly attached with my ultra-light spinning outfit to a cheap 7 foot fiberglass rod that works great for me.

I was born on a ranch 50 miles east of Pierre, SD. The ranch was located on Highway 47 two miles south of Highmore, SD. I was born in 1942 and I was a war baby. That means there was very little money except for the very necessary basics in life. My parents were a hard working couple who knew how to create what they needed. My dad was a hunter and they both loved to fish. We did both for food not for sport. On the ranch I grew up with a single shot .22 rifle in one hand and a fishing pole in the other.

We fished stock dams in the county and always on a Sunday afternoon. My first fishing outfit – six years of age (1948) - was an elm tree branch from a tree in our ranch shelter belt with a length of throw line tied to one end. My weight was a large rusted nut from a discarded bolt in the machine shop. I used a special loop my dad taught me to attach hooks to the throw line. The fish we caught were mostly bullheads in the spring time of the year. When we found a stock dam with pan fish they would not bite on our bullhead rigs. I know now the hooks were to darn big. The fish would nibble on the worm only.

As I sat on the shore of the dam waiting for the pan fish to nibble all the worm off my hook I watched the water and saw some of the fish sucking insects from the top of the water. That gave me an idea. I was already on my way to being an engineer at a very young age! Back at the ranch I found a small fluffy clean chicken feather in the chicken yard. Using some of my mother’s sewing thread I tied the feather to the smallest hook I had. Not knowing so I had created a sinking fly.

I removed the weight and bullhead hooks from the throw line. I had a hard time tying the small hook to the end of the throw line. I managed to get it done. The next time fishing the dam I caught fish when no one else did. My “branch” pole was long enough so I could use the weight of the throw line to get the feathered hook out past the edge of the weeds. The pan fish sucked in the fly and I lifted the tree branch to set the hook and get the fish to shore.

Crude but it worked! My hook was still too big and if the pan fish opened their mouth before I go them to shore I lost the fish. After a few fish were caught my fly was history.

I learned to tie a couple for fishing and I unraveled the throw line so I could tie the hook easier. I also had fish break off because of the smaller line. If I wanted to use different colors I used food coloring from my mother’s kitchen on the feather. The water diluted the color on the feather eventually but it worked. White uncolored chicken feather (white moth) and yellow using food coloring (yellow sally) were my first creations. I did not know the name for what I created until a lot of years later.

It worked to catch a lot of bluegills and crappies. My parents were very surprised and very pleased with the meals of fish. From that I progressed to a cane pole and finally fiberglass fly rods in the 1960s. I also bought a fly tying kit so I could “match the hatch” at stock dams while fishing for pan fish and bass! I have caught yellow perch and walleyes with my tied flies on UL spinning gear.

2) What is your favourite fly fishing reel you've ever used, and why?

2. My first fly fishing reel was a Bronson Royal 360, which I bought in the middle 1960s and I still own it. I have kept it in mint working condition.

3) Have you ever used/heard about Redington reels? If so, what's your
opinion on the company?

3. I am not familiar with Redington reels. They are a Washington state based company if memory serves me right.

4) What's your favourite piece of (fly) fishing equipment (rod, reel,
lure, depth finder/tech...)?

4. My favorite piece of fly fishing gear is my fly tying kit. “Matching the hatch” is a hoot. I enjoy it almost as much as I do creating shot gun loads for my competitive shotgun shooting.

5) What is the most common way you see reels break down?

5. Fishing reels of all types fail from lack of being kept clean and lack of frequent lubrication.

6) Tell us about your best fly fishing experience, and (if you don't
mind), where it took place?

6. Fly fishing the tail water of a large stock dam in the spring for large mouth bass. Fighting a LM bass on fly gear is a memory I will never forget!

7) With all the information available out there on fly fishing, what's
your favourite tip/piece of advice?

7. Life is short! Fish every chance you get!

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Redington Reels: Great Reputation, Customer Service

I was browsing around some fishing forums recently, and I was pleased to find that my favourite fishing equipment company (Redington ) has a good reputation. Namely, this is for its terrific price point, and for its helpful customer service (which I've been lucky enough not to need to date).

Here's what I found other anglers are saying:

1) The reels provide a good value for the price. They have features found on higher-scale reels but offer them at a better price.
2) Redington's AL series of rods and reels is rather popular.
3) Simple care keeps reels in good shape.
4) Redington is accomodating when it comes to exchanging reels, getting repairs, etc.

Unfortunately, at least two fellow outdoorsmen have had trouble with the Redington AL 7/8 series. Their problems seem focused on the drag and on the stainless steel components. Well, nobody's perfeeeeect...

Fishing Pro Interview Series

I'm happy to announce I'll be interviewing a bunch of fly fishing experts, reel know-it alls and so on. To date, I have Jim Bailey, of, and Jerald Hackenlaibe of JL Reel Service, and am speaking to other experts.

I'll keep you all up to date as more interviewees add their names to the list..

Lure Care & Maintenance

Lure Care & Maintenance
is generously contributed by Keith Lee

Keith Lee is a practical, do-it-yourself angler and owns , an info-packed website on making fishing lures. You can learn how to make high quality fishing lures at Keith's Make your own Fishing Lures, and use it as your trusted guide on home made fishing lures.

Making fishing lures may be easy for the seasoned do-it-yourself angler. But the maintenance of these lures is just as important to ensure a tip-top condition.

After buying or making the fishing lures there is the continuing responsibility of maintaining and repairing them so that they are always in good condition. This requires some effort and time but is usually easy for the angler who makes his own fishing lures.

As a lure maker he has the tools and fishing lure parts necessary for such work. All the tools required to assemble the parts and make the lures are explained on this page at .

Generally fishing lures do not require much care when storing them. The best idea is to put them into cabinet drawers or individual boxes so that they can be found easily and can be kept dry. In humid climates or near the seashore it is important not to expose the metal parts to the salty air as hooks will rust and other metals will corrode.

Fishing lures that have feathers or hair should be kept in airtight containers so that moths and other insects or small animals will not get to them. This also applies to new fishing lures that haven\'t yet been used. Lures which have been used require considerable care if you want to get the maximum use from them. Freshwater fishing lures usually require less care and repair than saltwater lures.

In general, when examining any fishing lure you have made or bought it's a wise policy to repair it if you are the least bit doubtful about its condition. Repairing usually means sandpapering the part of the lure body that is slightly chipped and then touching up with a small brush, using enamels or lacquers.

Replace the hooks with new ones if they are badly rusted. When doing this it is important to use the same size and weight as the old ones so that the action of the fishing lure is not changed in any way. If the damage is too bad and the lure cannot be repaired, throw it away after salvaging any usable parts.

It doesn't pay to take chances with a fishing lure that is weak in any way. You may hook a record fish but lose it if the lure is not dependable. Many anglers who buy their fishing lures in tackle stores often use them until they fall apart, before buying new ones. But if you make your own fishing lures you can afford to use only those that are still in good condition.

Always sharpen hooks before using to ensure a good hookset when that big one takes a bite. It is better to be safe than sorry.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Select Your Fishing Gear Carefully

I found a nice little general tip article by Lee Dobbins, covering fishing gear selection. It's short and digestible, but I have some comments to make.
First, if you're going to get a fly fishing reel, start by looking at the Redington Reels. Second, my experience with graphite in badminton is exactly as Lee describes it: lightweight and sturdy. I'm sure the rods are the same. However, I question if graphite provide the flexibility required in a rod... Anyways, here's Lee's article. Enjoy!

Select Your Fishing Gear Carefully by Lee Dobbins

It’s also important to have a good quality reel for fishing. If you are picking out a fly reel be aware that there are two types of drag systems. This is what provides the tension on the line and prevents the fish from running away with the line. You want to be sure to pick the right reel and drag tension if you are going after those larger fish.

Of course, you also need a great fishing rod and they come in many styles. Depending on the type of fishing you will be doing, you could choose a fly rod, surf casting rod, casting rod or deep sea rod. Using the right rod is imperative for a successful fishing trip. Quality is important too as the low quality rods break and fall apart easily. You don’t want that to happen when you are reeling in the big one!

The best rods today are made of graphite, they are the strongest but still lightweight. When selecting a rod, make sure the cork fits properly and the guides appear to be durable. Also, the guides should be covered with paint or something that will protect it from rust.

If you are planning an early morning fishing trip, it’s best to select your fishing gear the night before and test it out. That way you can run out to the store if you don’t have that perfect lure or your reel isn’t working properly. Make sure everything is working and you have enough line wound on your reel. Don’t forget to pack enough hooks, sinkers and other accessories.

Make sure the equipment you select is geared for the type of fishing you will be doing. The rods, reels and lures you will use differ depending on if you are in a fast moving stream or fishing from a canoe on a quite lake. Of course, the species of fish you are after makes a big difference in your choice of equipment as well.

So next time you plan a fishing trip, make sure you plan ahead and find out what the fish are eating at this time of year and what the water is like. Select your gear accordingly and you’ll be landing that prize catch in no time!

Lee Dobbins writes for Fishing Around where you can find out more about all types of fishing and how to make the best of your next fishing trip.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Buy a Redington, get a Gift certificate!

Here's the sort of thing I love: Percy's is giving away gift certificates to people who purchase some of its featured Redington Reels! Attago Percy's! Oh, and this is a non-affiliate thing. I'm not getting paid a black penny to promote them. I just like Redington, and deals on fishing equipment :D.

Reel Repairs: Prepare Ahead

JL Reel Service has a great tip on preparing for reel repairs. The short version is:
1) Keep the drawing/schematic of the reel that comes with the purchase.
2) Write the model, specific number, and year the reel was purchased on the drawing.
3) Store these where you know you'll find them later. I'd personally suggest somewhere related to your fishing gear but that's not likely to get damp. I.e. not on your boat, and probably not your basement.

Here's the full preparation post.

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Baitcasting Reels

Baitcasting Reels is an article offering tips on reel selection, courtesy of Allen Bohart.

As with most fishing gear available on the market, baitcasting reels come in a dizzying array of options, quality, and components. There are several simple characteristics, however, that can be easily learned by the novice, and which will aid tremendously in correctly choosing a good baitcasting reel. The most important characteristics to pay attention to are body material and construction, bearing material and construction, and the turn ratio of the crank.

There is a general impression that baitcasting reels are for more advanced fisherman, but that is not necessarily the case anymore. Many of the reels available on the market today are of such high quality that even a novice fisherman can easily master the techniques and uses of a baitcasting reel. For more information, visit Fishing Reels Guide (see resource box below).

The body of a baitcasting reel is normally made of one of two types of material: aluminum or graphite. Graphite reels are lightweight and highly resistant to corrosion, which makes these reels particularly useful in a saltwater fishing environment due to the high salinity of the water. Graphite is, however not quite as strong or durable as aluminum. If you want to chase after those giant marlins or tuna, then you will probably want to opt for the aluminum reel because of their strength. On the other hand, if you are only after croppie or other panfish, then a graphite bodied reel may just be the right choice for you.

Another important consideration when looking for a baitcasting reel is the ball bearings or bushings inside the reel. These are the components of the reel that have the most direct impact on the smoothness and “feel” of the reel. As a general rule, stainless steel ball bearings are preferable to bushings. Also, the more ball bearings the unit contains, the smoother the cranking will be. Smooth cranking is essential for a good fishing reel of any type, so that you can feel the action of the line in the water and whether or not you have a fish on the line. Baitcasting rules come with a range of ball bearing counts, usually from two to six. Two bearings would be an absolute minimum, while the fisherman should purchase a reel with the most amount of bearings his budget will allow for. Obviously, the more bearings a reel contains, the more expensive the reel will be.

A further consideration for choosing a good baitcasting reel is the turn ratio of the crank. Baitcasting reels come with a variety of turn ratio’s raging from 2:1, all the way to 1:6. The first number refers to the number of turns of the crank, while the second number refers to the number of times the spool rotates. For example 1:6 means that for every turn of the crank the spool turns 6 times, which is obviously a very high cranking power. Trolling, bottom bouncing, and jig working are good application for high cranking power, while bank fishing and general line hanging are better suited to low cranking power. For a good middle of the road number, choose a 4:1 ratio.

Other factors that should be considered when choosing a baitcasting reel include the drag system, casting controls, and specialized reels for particular species of fish. For more information on these advanced characteristics be sure to visit the link mentioned above.

Allen Bohart is a fishing fan, and enthusiastic writer for about any subject that interests him. He is also co-owner of The Fishing Bobber, a site for and about fishing enthusiasts of all levels. He is also the author of the Fishing Reels Guide.

Fishing Equipment Tips

Cheap Sinkers

Spark plugs make excellent disposable sinkers. Need some cheap (free) fishing weights? Go to any gas station and ask for them. Then, loop a rubber band through the electrode and then tapping the wire down the plug can be attached to a loop of monofilament. The rubber band stretches when the plug is hung up, and even if the extra stretching force isn’t enough to break free, the band will break before the monofilament.

Jig Weights

Jigs are one of the most versatile game-fish catchers in either fresh or saltwater. It is so important to have the right weight jig for your line weight. If the jig is too heavy for the line, you will loose your jig far too easily. If the jig is too light for the line, its swimming pattern will be disrupted and it won’t be ass effective. This simple chart will help you select the correct jig:

Line Strength Jig Size
4-lb. Test 1/16 to 1/8 oz.
6-lb. Test 1/8 to ¼ oz.
8-lb. Test ¼ to 3/8 oz.
10-lb. Test ¼ to ½ oz.
12-lb. Test 3/8 to 5/8 oz.
14 to 20-lb. Test 5/8 to ¾ oz

Treble Hook Replacement

When replacing the treble hooks on your lures, there are a few things to consider. Chang the split ring too because it is subject to stress and rust. Use a stainless-steel split ring for strength. They do not spread or rust as to most of those that come wit h the plugs. Don’t, however, use stainless steel hooks – they are more easily bent out of shape by a fighting fish. Also, if a fish gets away with your plug, stainless steel will not rust out, as a plain steel hook will. Lastly, get some split-ring pliers – they make changing your hooks easy.

Extra Springs

If you use a spinning reel, you have probably had a spring break when the fishing gets really hot. Always carry extras (use a 35mm-film canister) – and make sure to have a little screwdriver along as well. Practice changing it before you go out

No-slip Soles

If your winter boot soles are worn, just cut the liner to match the sole of an old sneaker. Fasten the felt to the sneaker sole with a non-soluble glue. Please a heavy object on top of the sneaker overnight, and by morning you have an all purpose non-slip shoe.

Snag-proof Spinners

Treble hooks are oftentimes “trouble” when using spinners, causing snags. Make them snag-free by removing the treble hook and replace with a single hook. Next thread on a three to four inch twister-tail grub and Texas-rig it.


Need to drop your bait down deep? Fish are very uncooperative creatures, and don’t always hang out near the surface. If your depth sounder is alerting you to fish down deeper, a downrigger can really help out.

If you aren’t exactly sure what it is, it is simple. It is a spool holding between 200-600 feet of steel cable. There is a weight attached that is between 6-12 pounds. Additionally there is a quick-release line gripper, just like a clothespin.

The fishing lines from your rods are attached to the quick-release mechanisms. Then the entire thing is dropped down to the depth you want. The bait is far enough from the weight and line gripper not to spook the fish. If you get a bite, the line is released from the gripper, so it is just you and the fish!

Some downriggers have fish-attractant properties (either electrical, or a special kind of paint), but not most of them.

Downriggers work great for deep trolling, and some even have an electronic crank that will bring everything up. If you need to get at deeper schools of fish, these are highly recommended.

Nail Polish Helps

Does your spoon, spinner, or plug get the paint chipped after only a few casts? Use clear fingernail polish to protect the paint and increase durability. Carry a bottle with you when you are fishing, and give it a shot.


If there is dirt on your ferrule it can contribute to rapid wear. Make a plug out of wood to help keep the female ferrule clean.

Is your ferrule stuck? Use “Liquid Wrench”, which you can get at any auto-parts store. Just spray it around the male ferrule and let it drip down. In a few minutes you will be able to pull it apart.

Getting Out Line Tangles

Use a pair of large fabric needles to work out these tangles. They have a smooth finish which won’t damage the line as you work the mess out. They are also handy to sew canvas tarp, leather, or carpet strips.

Pocket Tackle box

Attach a cord to your pocket tackle box, so you don’t worry about dropping it in the water or leaving it behind. Just drill an undersized hole near the back of the box and insert a small eye-screw. A know will stop the cord from slipping through the eye. Just put a clip on the other end so that you can secure the rope to a belt loop or buttonhole.

Avoiding Line Twist

Line twist is the leading cause of fouled fishing. To check for it, pull off enough line to span your outstretched hands – about 6 feet. Next, bring your hands together in front of you, causing the line to drop into a loop. If the loop wraps around itself, you have line twist. Remove it by trolling about 100 feet of line behind a boat. Next install a ball-bearing swivel to prevent future line twist.

Knots Are Key

One of the most important things in losing or landing a hooked fish is your knot. Be certain the knot you are tying is strong and properly tied.

To make sure, tie your usual knot and test it against other knots. A good test is to take two four-inch sections of a broom handle with the screw eye in the center of each. Tie a knot in each screw eye and pull steadily until you see which knot survives. Do it 10 times to get an average. The knot that holds best should be your new knot.

Anchor Pulley, Keep it Quiet

If you use an anchor pulley, you risk spooking the fish as most pulleys eventually start to squeak. Try this alternative to a pulley:

Get a large U-bolt, a few nuts and washers, and an old-style glass or porcelain fencepost insulator.

Slip the insulator on a U-bolt, drill a couple of holes to accommodate the bolt, and tighten it to the mounting surface. The anchor rope will slide freely in the insulator’s groove, and the anchor lowers and raises as effortlessly as with a pulley, especially once the rope is wet.

Casting Poppers

Casting poppers with a fly rod is awkward. To get better distance bore a slightly undersized small hole in the popper, just big enough to fit a BB in. It should fit snugly and will give you another 30 feet of casting distance at least.

Cheap and easy depth finder

Using two felt-tipped markers (red and black) mark an anchor rope as follows: A single red mark around the rope at five feet, a red and black mark at 10 feet, a single red mark at 15 feet, two black marks at 20 feet, a single red and two black marks at 25 feet and three black marks at 30. Use the color code red for every five feet and multiples of black for 10 feet.

Netting baitfish

Increases the efficiency of your minnow scoop by putting a bend in it. Just turn the wire handle down 90 degrees, then push the net back on line. The forward-positioned net makes it much easier to trap a baitfish against the inside of an open-top bucket.

A Cheap Anchor For A Fishing Boat

For holding a good-sized boat over a rocky bottom, use a large swivel snap to fasten four fee of heavy chain to a standard mushroom anchor. You can get one from a junkyard. The chain boosts the anchor’s weight and holding power, provides convenient handles for lowering and raising, and gives extra leverage when an anchor jams in rocks or snags. When he brings it aboard, he coils the heavy chain on a bed of old foam-rubber pads so it doesn’t rattle around or dent his boat. In calm water, he simply unsnaps the chain and uses the mushroom anchor by itself.

Copyright 2005

Frank Faldo is a Long-Time Fisherman and friend of Evening Secret Fishing

Friday, July 14, 2006

Redington Dealers

Here's another reason I love Redington: their site is simple to use, and provides really practical information. Consider this easy resource to find a Redington dealer!

Fly Fishing: Catch Fruit Flies for Bait!

People at the University of Nebraska in Lincoln county have developed a fly trap for catching fruit flies. I saw this and thought to myself: "Hey! Why not share this with my angling friends as a trick to catch your own bait?"

Here's what you'll need:
An empty jar (think peanut butter jar),
Beer (right, that'll be hard for an angler to find around the house!)
A plastic bag, and
An elastic band.

1 - Pour beer into the jar until the beer is about one inch deep.
2 - Place one of the bag's corners in the jar, pointing down towards the beer.
3 - Puncture a small hole in the bag, just big enough for a fruit fly to get through.
4 - Secure the bag to the jar with the elastic.

See the photo of what the fruit fly trap looks like.

Tall Tales of Fish That Got Away: Loch Ness

Perhaps the most famous tall tale about fish that got away concerns the Loch Ness monster, or Nessie.
Many people's stories of Nessie actually don't consider Nessie to be a fish, but some kind of strange species of water reptile. Whatever Nessie is, she's certainly one of the most interesting stories of modern times.

In Scotland, a Loch is a lake. The etymology of the word likely has some relation to the the English lake, the french lac, and the Spanish lago, suggesting that the term probably has latin origins. Thus the Loch Ness monster is the monster that resides in a particular body of water, namely Loch Ness.
Tall tales of fish that got away: Nessie

By the pictures shown here (courtesy of some anthropologists and Nessie enthusiasts), it should be apparent that Nessie is quite a large beast. For this reason, many Nessie fans suggest she's a dinosaur that's somehow still alive. Others counter that sightings have established an eel-like shape, and so she is something more akin to a water-snake.

At any rate, if someone were to find Nessie (not catch her) with irrefutable photographic proof, I would certainly call them the King of Anglers. Until then, the Loch Ness monster remains a great story.

Four Fly Fishing Tips

Four Fly Fishing Tips
by Frank Faldo

Good Fly Presentation

Obviously, the goal when casting a fly is to present the fly to the fish in a realistic manner. You are trying to simulate nature here. If you are going for trout in a stream, for instance, this means a drag-free float of 36 inches over a precise spot that marks the window of a feeding fish.

Never randomly cast – you have got to pick a spot and hit it. Throw tight loops that put the fly on target. One important method that can be used is to overcast the target and stop the line short while it is in the air. The fly should come back to you and fall on the water with slack in the leader.

The best trout fishermen fish with only 30 to 35 feet of line, but make up for this with accurate casting. They read waters will and put the fly in the p ay zone time after time. One of the most important thins they do is to recognize that presentation and approach are much more important than pattern.

It is different for bass. Whether a surface bug or a streamer, the offering must move past a spot where a bass is apt to hold. As the boat drifts, it is important to pick a precise time to shoot a cast to the target. Too soon or too late, and the fly won’t be in the right spot. This is where the double haul form of casting becomes essential. It generates line speed and enables the caster to pick 30 or 40 feet of line off the water and shoot another without false casting.

When bassing, make your presentation, retrieve 10 to 20 feet, pick up, and cast again without the need to false cast. After each one, drop the rod type and keep the butt of the rod near your belt buckle with the tip-top of the rod pointing at the line. A simple lift will let you execute the next pickup or strike a fish.

Leader Connection

If you are a fly caster, you know that a smooth connection between the leader and fly line is important in presentation. The best way to do this is to nail-knot a six-inch piece of 25-30 pound leader material to the end of the fly line. A loop like those found on snelled hooks is then tied into the opposite end. The connecting leader must also have a loop.

Connecting the leader itself is done by passing the loop attached to the fly line through the loop on the leader; reaching through the fly line loop. Next, grab the butt section of the leader and pull the leader up through until the tippet passes the loop. Last, just pull the loops together by tugging on the fly line and the butt section in opposite directions.


If you are every in a situation where see large brown trout in open water and hold, your best bet is to use a No. 12 Cinnamon Ant and sink it. If this doesn’t work, move to the No.16 Adams fly. Still nothing? Switch to the No. 20 Black Ant. Last-ditch effort would be to use a 3X tippet and use a No. 6 nymph or streamer.

Typically the bigger trout will leave small morsels to the small guys, preferring the bigger bites that are easy to get. They are very economical feeders.

High Rider Dry Fly’s

If your best dry-fly patterns are failing you, it may be time to switch to spiders and variants. Many times a spider or variant will bring trout to the surface, then you can switch back to a conventional dry fly.

These spiders and variants will delicately drop to the water, usually somersaulting or jumping after touching it. Fish find this very alluring.

High riding is another attribute of these flies. When tied properly, their hackles support the hook above the water’s surface, thus imitating a natural fly much more closely than the ordinary fly does.

Copyright 2005

Frank Faldo Is A Long-Time Fisherman and President of Evening
Secret Fishing

Redington's Reels: Four Series

Redington has four different series of reels. They go from the top of the line CD reels, to the SVs, the "Red Fly"s, and finally the Crosswater reels.

At their most expensive, Redington's reels go for approximately $140 (the CD line of reels), while at their least expensive, Redington's products go for $40.
As with all premium reels, Redington's are sold separately from the the spools. The spools also vary in price, according to the series they're made to go with.

What's beautiful is that the top of the line Redingtons perform just as well as their competitors, while costing much less!